Welcome to New York...
How a cadaver got me to the city that never sleeps & why I keep going back.
Have I told you about the time a cadaver got me to come to NY?
I thought going to New York in the middle of December was an inconvenience, but it was for my husband's work and the hotel was already paid for. We had companion passes on Southwest, and childcare would be provided a la Lola (Nato's mom). It just seemed like everything was so budget friendly, it would be dumb to stay home. Also, though not necessary to mention, I have a love affair with You've Got Mail. I first watched the movie when a family I babysat for had, no exaggeration, hundreds of VHS movies lined up like you were in a library but for VHS movies. So I guess you could say they had their own Blockbuster. When the kids went to bed, I would peruse the shelves.
I grew up both too poor to watch movies (no cable, thus no movie channels and there was no extra money to go to anything but the Dollar Theater which played years old movies) and we just weren’t allowed to watch anything but G rated movies. And even that was up for grabs whenever Evangelicals decided to boycott Disney movies. So that left us with a lot of Brady Bunch, Little House on the Prairie, McGee and Me, Psalty, Fraggle Rock, and Veggie Tales and oddly, The Simpsons. Ask me later why I have a “creative and warped sense of humor.”
So this physical (and terrible financial investment) movie catalog was pretty incredible to me. I always picked romantic comedies and when I saw Meg Ryan on the front of a certain rectangle, I thought: 1) I need her hair and 2) this movie looks so happy. Spoiler alert: The intro is a zoom out from the city that continually comes further and further in town. You’re dropped into a brownstone lined street, in the middle of fall, through a window where you see a glimpse of Meg’s NY life (DROOL). I rewound that part immediately. Sometimes, just as the weather turns from summer to fall, I watch the intro. I let it play in the background while I’m cooking dinner and the comfort it brings is not unlike the chicken noodle soup I often make. I’ll post that in the next email (see what I did there?).
With my NY obsession building, I looked for New York in every movie, and every show from then on. And I often found the iconic city in lots of places: FRIENDS (I mean, how did they afford that apartment?), Elf (congratulations on the world’s best cup of coffee!), Hitch (LOL the wave runner scene), Home Alone 2 (Arguably better than the first), When Harry Met Sally (learned some adult things), Sleepless in Seattle (On the top of the Empire State Building!). Can you tell I like Norah Ephron films?
So while not the best timing for schedules, It was a no brainer. I loved a city I had never been to before and the pull was pulling.
Most normal people research and plan for a trip like this, but not me. I like to think it’s best to just let the town show you what to do. And this concept drives many insane. And that’s why I can’t travel with others. I sleep in, I stay out late. I need a midday nap. I have dietary restrictions. Sometimes, I like to stop and take pictures of dogs. I don’t like to be tied down by too many hard and fast plans. It is best, if you want to live, to not have back to back touristy things planned if I’m with you.
And so when we got to LaGuardia, I grabbed my luggage and promptly went outside. I was hot, and needed the winter air. A suburban had just unloaded passengers and we hadn’t called an Uber yet. It seemed natural to make my way over and get in the car. How Fortuitous! We didn’t even have to call a Taxi! I yelled for Nato to follow. The guy in a thick Dominican Republic mixed with a thick New Yawk accent slowly said, “You, uhhh, can’t get in here.” I guess there were rules about Uber and Taxis and something about a Union come to find out.
"But I’m already in," I smiled and didn’t move.
After our brief staring contest where I didn’t blink, he laughed and looked at my husband, “You sure this girl isn’t from New York?” I forgot to mention we had 3 other people coming. And these were a Doctor, his wife, and an assistant. Nato was hosting for some kind of cadaver lab which makes me cringe. But it’s not uncommon to practice surgical procedures on limbs donated to medicine. Yes, I guess it is bizarre to think about, but it was my husband’s job occasionally.
Anyway, in the midst of getting to the car, the others were none the wiser of how I acquired our slightly unprofessional ride into town while getting the rest of their luggage. Not to worry, I would give them several opportunities shortly to find out how unprofessional I could become. While I didn’t plan anything to do in the Big Apple, I did make a playlist for the Big Apple. As I tend to vomit gratuitously on long car rides, I snagged the very front seat with the driver and it always catches the driver off guard. But no one wants their car to smell like puke so they allow and encourage it.
“Mind if I put in my very special playlist?,” I asked.
We became fast friends anyway, after I learned how he immigrated, his life story and that his daughter, who lived in Brooklyn, was close to my age. She had 3 kids and I had 4 and we talked about how hard it is. I plugged in my cord and had some Frank Sinatra going, then Alicia Keys and Jay Z, and just as we started to cross the bridge into New York -- T Swift’s, “Welcome to New York” came on. My tears welled up.
"Hilario, it’s so magical,” I whispered while the others in the back chit-chatted.
"I’ll open the sunroof."
At that moment, I forgot the doctor and his wife were in the back seat. I forgot that we were in a car at all. I was in the clouds. I stuck my hands up through the sunroof and sang loud. The December air was cold weaving through my fingers like magic. I thought I was in Heaven...UNTIL.
Until Hilario said, “Slow traffic. You can stand up. Go ahead, we’re going 5 miles per hour.”
So I did. And yelled-sang: The lights are so bright but they never blind meee-EEEE.
I slinked back in realizing we were supposed to be hosting this Doctor and his wife, a little embarrassed over my lost in the moment excitement. But they were all laughing. Or maybe it was the embarrassing, continual nose puffs? WHO CARES.
“Dr. Kendrick, let me introduce you to my wife.” We drove into the city lights, right into the middle of Time Square where our hotel was and where I’m sure my husband had to peel my face off the window and clean the slobber that had puddled on Hilario’s nice leather seats.
Our hotel room was pretty high up. But all night long you could hear the honks, the break squeals, yelling – some kind of magnificent sound machine. The city didn't sleep, and neither did I, from my NY high.
The next morning, there was a text that Nato had a meeting till noon and I could just "chill and watch a movie” until he got back. He knows I’m afraid to do traveling things without him. But I put on my lace up winter wedges and jacket, and decided it would be easy enough if I just walked 1 or 2 blocks. I reasoned it’s hard to get lost if I just stay in a square.
As soon as I walked out of the lobby it was like I was dropped into a choose your own adventure book:
Ok, right or left.
Left, because I don’t want to cross that busy street.
Wow, the wind really slaps when you turn the corner. Note to self, get a scarf.
Also, Poor choice in shoes. Everyone is wearing comfy tennis shoes. Even the fancy people.
Next street ahead… Only one choice because I must stay in the square: Left again.
I imagine what happened when I turned the corner next was what locals might describe as a scene in ELF where he runs through the town riding escalators, zipping in and out of every hole in the wall cafe, all while wearing inappropriate footwear with an aggressive smile and un-New Yorkerly joy. As I turned the corner, My mouth dropped. Radio City Music Hall was shining in Red Glowing lights. I walked toward the sign like a mosquito to a light zapper. The closer I got, the more I saw everything was decorated to the nines: wreaths, giant ornaments, the Salvation Army bell ringing and the guy ringing it was singing Jingle Bells. And singing it like he meant it. Music was everywhere, and the atmosphere was electric. Literally every building was lit up and so was I.
This can’t be real.
A line of Rockettes came out single file in their matching red velvet, red lips and began kicking their legs up in unison right there on the street. If you liked that ladies and gentlemen, come to the show at 3 or 5pm today! I crossed the street, Rockefeller Center was hopping. This is where they film Saturday Night Live! I watched ice skaters below, mesmerized. When I came to my senses, I realized my toes were so painfully cold, as were my ears. I decided to walk home on account of midwestern frostbite sensibility.
On the street over, there was a man selling Burberry look-alike scarves and I grabbed one and paid him the only cash I had in my pocket. I was a dollar short and he took it! I legitimately can’t haggle but I promised up and down it was all I had because it was true. I tied the scarf around my neck and felt like a hug enveloped me. Like when the dryer is still warm and there's a sweatshirt you throw on. A hug that I didn’t know then, would never leave me.
Frozen-smile-teeth, wrong-shoes, Can’t-lose. Isn’t that the saying? I guess everyone has a different happy place.
Nato came in from working at noon and I practically pounced on him, “You will not believe what I saw! And I’m sorry I did it without you, but I was just exploring…. I am in love with this place! Radio CIty, the Rockettes, Rockefeller Center! Time Square! We have to come back immediately!”
And anyway, that’s how a cadaver got me to come to NY.
7 trips later, here’s what I know:
You need to play to your personality. Do you like calm, planned, low key, or back to back stimulation. Something in between? Fancy or no frills? NY has something for everyone! If you’re a planner, then plan your brains out. But if you’re like me, I need 1 plan per day… the rest, I fill by walking and surprises.
I don’t need to be the fanciest but I do like a good home base to relax. If you’re like me and would rather spend more on a boutique hotel, I would suggest the Tablet Hotels app. They are such cute, usually non chain hotels, with good discounts and lots of fun perks. Always go Boutique over big chains when you can!
If you’re on a budget, you might try VRBO, but know you might have roommates and it’s often not great for families. I know a lot of people use points, and you need a specific hotel and that’s amazing. Use those and ignore my boutique hotel experiences!
If you have bloomed into a princess while traveling (oopsies), I do love using a travel agent because they give you all the hookups, lots of perks, and it’s like having a personal assistant for booking shows or telling you which restaurants to go to in your area. But this can run higher end. Not terribly, but it can. This time we went, our hotel cost was very low but we were out of season, so you can find a work around. But we always get upgraded and they always take care of us whenever we need. It’s like traveling with a personal assistant.
Once you know your hotel, you can know your base. Then you need to map out what’s important to you. Food? Shows? Big city, or smaller feel? This will all dictate where you need to stay most of the time. Though you might stretch yourself and find you like things you never knew!
If you’re going the first time, it’s ok to want to do tourist things! DO THEM! If you don’t, don’t!
Take a bus tour if you want, it covers a lot of ground. This type of thing isn’t for me, but it is for many. At the baggage claim, a lady suggested this to me as the best thing in the universe--to each her own!
Empire State Building (on account of my love for Sleepless in Seattle) is $50 per person if you want to skip the line and if time is money, I suggest it. The lines can be sooooo long. If you don’t do the skip the line pass, it’s almost like being in an airport. You might want to download a movie or have snack and drinks--it can be crowded. With covid, we went and no one was there, it was bizarre! But that’s not normal.
The NBC building (just to be in the same building as Jimmy Fallon and possibly surprised by him!) is FREE. You can peruse the gift shop and meander around--I loved the energy of it!
Rockefeller center window shopping is free, but the ice skating and the legos you buy next door are not! (If you have kids, go to the lego store!) If you’re going to ice skate, I suggest going to Central Park! Serendipity vibes all the way and it is not crowded.
*I never tried to find Serendipity ice cream but I'm sure you will if you want to stand in a long line for pretty run of the mill ice cream!
Time Square is so close to this area and really you need to go when it's dark. It’s just so cool to be in the middle of it all! Make sure you don’t have to pee. But if you're hungry, a hole in the wall $1.50 pizza slice, or a street truck Gyro is worth every penny. DO NOT plan to eat a big meal down there unless you like chain restaurants you can find literally anywhere (NO)! This is not the place for good food, just generally visual stimulation and a possible jump on a 360 photo circle (highly recommend - click here for mine!)
But, if you just keep walking right or left you can find so many other food options. I would say room service is better than what you’ll find in Time Square and cheaper, to be honest.
For good local food and shopping, you’ll want to go outside the time square bubble into Chelsea, Greenwich, Bryant Park, or Brooklyn. Although you better believe I’ve bought a t-shirt or ornament from a cheesy tourist shop a time or two.
Bryant park has an amazing outdoor local gift market in Nov-Dec! And the cutest cafe right outside the Museum. Also there’s a Whole Foods next to the Park if you need to grab anything!
Chelsea is the best place to shop for fun gifts to bring home. You must go to the Chelsea market! There you’ll find food, gifts and home goods. As always, original art sold on the street is a super special purchase. It’s original art that no one in your city will have! There are so many NY prints available too, so snag those up--especially if they are signed. And even if they’re not, I think art is one of the best memento’s you can take from any place you visit.
The Highline is amazing and free, the views are great.
Local Shopping:
ABC home for unique home goods (no, not the TV network)
Fish’s Eddy for hilarious and functional home goods (close to ABC home)
Chelsea Market always has local pop ups
For kids: Pearl River Market has such fun gifts to bring home
Posman Books is unique, fun, and has something for everyone
Los Tacos is where you should have lunch/dinner if you’re there shopping anyway!
Friedman’s also has some good GF options.
Coffee:
Ralph’s
Gregory’s
Stumptown
Literally any local place is so good minus the places who advertise that they have the best (lol)cup of coffee, as we saw in ELF
SKIP STARBUCKS for funsies when possible
Restaurants (I’m not fancy and don’t have a sophisticated palette):
Rosemary’s
Fonda
Jack’s Wife Freida
Dante’s
Wild (gluten free exclusively and changed my life. My husband isn’t GF and the burger CHANGED us.) We could not get enough of this place.
Buvette
Senza (gluten free place) Cinnamon roll was really good
Bouchon and Magnolia bakery
If you’ve never seen a Broadway show, go see Wicked or Hamilton. I didn’t understand musicals before Wicked and I cried at the end. Give it a chance!
And if you’re going soon, and you can go see Music Man with Hugh Jackman! OH MY GOSH WE CAN’T STOP TALKING ABOUT IT!!
Regardless, GO! It has been the best time. I want everyone to go before winter when they close everything down again and tighten restrictions for winter. If you can make it happen, now is the time!
P.S. There were no mask requirements or vax requirements anywhere for now! But even when there are, you can eat in the outdoor seating that is everywhere!
Thank you, Jami! My daughter and I are in JFK waiting to fly back to PDX. We did all the tourist stuff on our first visit. Averaged 10 miles of walking each of the 3 full days we were in the city. We will be back.
I visited NYC vicariously through your newletter! Our college friends lived on LongIsland and we visited them in March 2000, before towers fell...we got to tour ONE, or was it 2? I remember at the tickets counter I mispronounced LesMiz and got a smirk from the guy,...toting my tie-dyed backpack like a crazy midwest tourist..next time I will wear black. We had pizza in Little Italy, stopped in Tiffany's & Macy's, saw Bryant, the edge of Central Park and Battery Park. We saw the filming of abc's GoodMorning America, CharlieGibson & DianeSawyer. Our pilot from Midwest Airlines flew us into LaGuardia from the tip all the way north...it was dusk and the island was glowing like a jewel; I was so overcome with excitement and emotion that I cried a bit. At Times Square, we went in to McDonald's and I shot a pic of of the sign there: "Seating for 100 upstairs"...it was posted right beside the sign: "Restrooms"...this just tickled my funny bone. I got to hug you at convention; my daughter Carmen Garlich LS has met you I think, at least visited Lottie, which I hope to do some day..I heard you convention 2019 & started following you then,...especially thankful for your open life stories, the HOPE you offer for infidelity. Love you Jami, Arlene Collins